Jewelry from the 1940s and 1950s: from black and white to color

The 1940s and 1950s marked a true break in jewelry style. From the Art Deco style, we move to a more colorful, whimsical, and above all freer style: the Retro style. Here we explain its characteristics and history. 

In the 1920s and 1930s, platinum, onyx and diamonds were very trendy. Consequently, sober black-and-white Art Deco jewelry was favored. The 1940s, however, marked a break in style: color returned to jewelry, notably with yellow gold and rose gold.

During the 1940s and 1950s, jewelry successively evolved from an animal and floral style (notably the Cartier Panthère ring in 1943) to a more abstract style. The style of 1950s jewelry drew inspiration from new artistic movements emerging at the same time, less figurative and more whimsical.

Among the great jewelers of the 1940s and 1950s, we notably find Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Bulgari, Hermès, Mauboussin, Sterlé, and Mellerio known as Meller.

A brief history of 1940s and 1950s jewelry

The break in style between the 1920s and 1930s jewelry, inspired by the Art Deco style, and the jewelry of the 1940s and 1950s, more exuberant and colorful, coincided with World War II. As early as 1937 and the Spanish Civil War, a break was anticipated at the International Exhibition of Arts and Techniques in Modern Life, with the return of figurative-inspired jewelry in the "Jewelry Arts" category.

This break was confirmed with a shortage of raw materials usually used for jewelry in a wartime context. Platinum was requisitioned by the Army, gold was subject to strict regulations, and precious stones were no longer imported. Indeed, before the war, the most common precious stones in jewelry were imported from Asia; during the war, trade routes with Asia were cut off and a substitute had to be found.

To overcome these raw material issues, jewelers of the time used copper in their alloys, which gave that particular, slightly pinkish color to the gold of 1940s and 1950s jewelry. For precious stones, they opted for synthetic colored stones: synthetic corundums, a mixture of aluminum oxide and red dye, were notably used to replace rubies. One of the most used techniques to circumvent restrictions was the melting down of existing jewelry.

At the end of the war, when shortages and restrictions gradually ceased, the Art Deco style did not come back into fashion: the Retro style was born.

The Retro style in 1940s and 1950s jewelry

1940s and 1950s jewelry has a unique, highly recognizable style thanks to the Retro style. The Retro style in jewelry is distinguished by a break with the styles in vogue at the time, such as Art Deco, which appeared in the 1920s. Sober, geometric Art Deco jewelry contrasts with figurative, colorful Retro jewelry, but paradoxically simpler and less luxurious.

Retro jewelry is no longer worn as a parure: thus, a single piece worn alone is often large in size to compensate. We often speak of sculpture to refer to these three-dimensional pieces, with significant volumes and, for watches, sophisticated mechanisms.

Retro jewelry is thus characterized by its curves and volumes, as well as by the work on gold. Gold is worked as one would work a textile, with gold threads, knots, lace or tulle. The Van Cleef & Arpels "Zip" demi-parure is a good example!

As for themes, they are varied, with a predominance of the figurative style. Creators drew inspiration from the plant and animal worlds, but not only. In a wartime context, many jewelers created patriotic jewelry, to show their support for the Allies in their own way. These pieces, featuring the colors of the French flag (blue, white and red), were often brooches, more discreet to wear, such as the V-brooch by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin (1942), made of precious stones (gold, diamond, sapphire, ruby) and moonstone; or the bouquet brooch from the Hawaii collection by Van Cleef & Arpels (1940), made of gold, diamonds, sapphires and rubies.

Finally, 1940s and 1950s jewelry also distinguishes itself from jewelry of other eras by its accessibility. Many pieces signed by anonymous creators are affordable in terms of price, although they are just as sophisticated as designer jewelry.

Diamonds in 1940s and 1950s Retro jewelry

Diamonds were used less in the 1940s and 1950s than in the Art Deco era. Art Deco favored precious stones, especially diamonds, showcased in sober pieces often paired with platinum. In contrast, Retro jewelry is more colorful: thus, the combination of yellow or rose gold and small colored precious stones is favored to add small touches of color. When 1940s and 1950s jewelry features diamonds, they are often small diamonds used to embellish the figurative motifs of the piece.

Some iconic 1940s and 1950s jewelry

The 1940s and 1950s saw the emergence of jewelry models still trendy today.

The Tank ring

Among the emblematic pieces of the 1940s Retro style, we find the Tank ring. This type of ring appeared during World War II (hence its name). The Tank ring is distinguished by its voluminous appearance and often intricate shapes: interlocking knots, geometric forms... It is in a way one of the precursor pieces of the XXL jewelry so popular today!

With the Tank ring, many pieces, such as necklaces and bracelets, embraced this trend of heavy, voluminous jewelry, which had already been initiated by Cartier with its Tank watch, inspired by tank motifs, after World War I.

The secret watch

Another emblematic type of jewelry from this period is the secret watch. This watch intended for women had a lid to hide the time, based on the then-widespread principle that women should not always know the exact time. The motifs were varied: animal, floral, ribbons or geometric patterns... Among the best-known creators, Piaget stood out with its ribbon-and-bow secret watches, such as the Limelight with a rose gold ribbon motif set with 301 diamonds. But Piaget is not the only French house to have created its model of secret watch: all the renowned jewelers of the time did so, notably Cartier, Boucheron, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Retro brooches

Brooches are also emblematic of the 1940s and 1950s, especially those adorned with animal motifs. The most iconic of the kind was the one imagined by Cartier in 1942: a brooch in the shape of a birdcage symbolizing the Occupation, reissued in 1944 as an open cage with the bird ready to take flight...

Sell an antique piece of jewelry with Diamantaire Paris

Our store Diamantaire Paris buys your antique jewelry (vintage jewelry) and your designer pieces.

If you have a Retro piece from the 1940s and 1950s to sell and wish to know its value, feel free to contact us by email at [email protected] or come in without an appointment at 43 rue Beaubourg in Paris.

You can also call us at: +33 1 48 87 23 37

1940s and 1950s jewelry represents a fascinating period in the history of jewelry, marked by a significant stylistic break from the Art Deco era. This period saw the emergence of a more colorful, whimsical, and free style, known as the Retro style. The creations of this period are distinguished by the use of yellow and rose gold, as well as animal and floral motifs, evolving into more abstract styles influenced by contemporary artistic movements.

World War II had a considerable impact on the style of jewelry from this period. The war led to a shortage of raw materials, forcing jewelers to innovate. Platinum was requisitioned, gold was regulated, and precious stones were difficult to import. Jewelers used copper alloys and synthetic stones to overcome these restrictions, giving rise to unique creations with distinct colors and styles.

Among the great jewelers of the 1940s and 1950s, we find Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Bulgari, Hermès, Mauboussin, Sterlé, and Mellerio known as Meller. These houses helped shape the jewelry landscape of this era with their innovative and iconic creations.

Diamantaire Paris offers appraisal and purchase of these Retro pieces, reflecting this unique historical period. If you own a Retro piece from the 1940s and 1950s and wish to know its value, you can contact Diamantaire Paris by email at [email protected] or come in without an appointment at 43 rue Beaubourg in Paris.

For those looking to enrich their collection with historical pieces, 1940s and 1950s jewelry offers a unique opportunity. Iconic pieces like the 1940s Tank ring or Retro brooches, available at renowned jewelers, capture the essence of the Retro style. Discover these historical pieces and more at Diamantaire Paris, where you can also explore their expertise in Art Deco jewelry and iconic 1940s rings.

To learn more about these pieces, visit their dedicated page.

Jewelry from this period marks a break from the previous Art Deco style, adopting a more colorful, whimsical and free style known as the Retro style. It is characterized by the use of yellow and rose gold, and animal and floral motifs, evolving into more abstract styles influenced by contemporary artistic movements.

The war led to a shortage of raw materials, forcing jewelers to innovate. Platinum was requisitioned, gold was regulated, and precious stones were difficult to import. Jewelers used copper alloys and synthetic stones to overcome these restrictions, giving rise to unique creations with distinct colors and styles.

Among the great jewelers of the 1940s and 1950s, we find Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Bulgari, Hermès, Mauboussin, Sterlé, and Mellerio known as Meller.

Diamantaire Paris buys antique jewelry and designer pieces from this era. If you own a Retro piece from the 1940s and 1950s and wish to know its value, you can contact Diamantaire Paris by email at [email protected] or come in without an appointment at 43 rue Beaubourg in Paris.

Iconic pieces from this period include the Tank ring, which appeared during World War II, and the secret watch, intended for women with a lid hiding the time. Retro brooches, especially those with animal motifs, are also representative of this era.

1940s and 1950s jewelry marks a break from the Art Deco style, introducing a more colorful and whimsical Retro style. They are characterized by the use of yellow and rose gold, as well as animal and floral motifs, influenced by contemporary artistic movements. These unique creations were born from material restrictions during World War II, leading to the use of copper alloys and synthetic stones. Diamantaire Paris offers appraisal and purchase of these Retro pieces, reflecting this unique historical period. To learn more about these pieces, visit their dedicated page .

By incorporating iconic pieces like the 1940s Tank ring or Retro brooches, available at renowned jewelers, you capture the essence of the Retro style. Discover these historical pieces and more at Diamantaire Paris, where you can also explore their expertise in Art Deco jewelry and iconic 1940s rings.