No appointment necessary: 43 Rue Beaubourg, 75003 Paris
- 43 Rue Beaubourg 75003 Paris
- 01 48 87 23 37
- achat@diamantaire-paris.com
- 43 Rue Beaubourg 75003 Paris
- 01 48 87 23 37
- achat@diamantaire-paris.com
The 40s and 50s marked a real breakthrough in jewelry styling. From Art Deco styleNow we're moving on to a style that's more colorful, more whimsical and, above all, freer: retro. We explain its characteristics and history.
In the 20s and 30s, platinum, onyx and diamonds were very much in vogue. As a result, sober black-and-white art deco-style jewelry was favored. The '40s, however, saw a break in style: color made a comeback in jewelry, notably with yellow and rose gold.
During the 40's and 50's, jewelry moved from animal and floral styles (notably Cartier's Panthère ring in 1943) to a more abstract style. The jewelry style of the '50s was inspired by the new, less figurative and more whimsical art movements emerging at the same time.
Among the great jewellers of the 40s and 50s were Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, Boucheron, BulgariHermès, Mauboussin, Sterlé, or even Mellerio known as Meller.
The stylistic break between the jewels of the 20s and 30s, inspired by the Art Deco styleand jewelry from the 40s and 50sThe new, more exuberant and colorful jewelry styles coincided with the outbreak of the Second World War. As early as 1937 and the Spanish Civil War, the International Exhibition of Technical Arts in Modern Life signaled a break with the past, with the return of figurative-inspired jewelry to the "Arts of Adornment" category.
This break was confirmed by a shortage of the raw materials usually used for jewelry in a wartime context. Platinum was requisitioned by the Army, gold was subject to strict regulations, and precious stones were no longer imported. Indeed, before the war, the most common gemstones used in jewelry were imported from Asia; during the war, trade routes with Asia were cut off and a substitute had to be found.
To overcome these raw material problems, jewelers of the period used copper in their alloys, which gave the gold of the 40s and 50s its distinctive pinkish color. As for gemstones, they opted for colored synthetic stones: synthetic corundum, a mixture of aluminum oxide and red dye, was widely used as a substitute for gold. ruby. One of the most common techniques used to get around the restrictions is to remake jewelry.
At the end of the war, when shortages and restrictions gradually came to an end, the Art Deco style did not become fashionable again: the retro style was born.
Jewelry from the 40s and 50s has a unique, highly recognizable style, thanks to retro styling. The retro style in jewelry is characterized by a break with the styles in vogue at the time, such as Art Deco, which appeared in the 1920s. Sober, geometric Art Deco jewelry is contrasted with colorful, figurative retro jewelry, which is paradoxically simpler and less luxurious.
Retro jewelry is no longer worn as an adornment: jewelry worn on its own is often of imposing size to compensate. The term "sculpture" is often used to describe 3-dimensional jewelry, with large volumes and, in the case of watches, sophisticated mechanisms.
Retro jewelry is characterized not only by its curves and volumes, but also by its use of gold. Gold is worked like a textile, with gold threads, bows, lace or tulle. The "Zip" half-set by Van Cleef & Arpels is a good example!
As for the themes, they are varied, with a predominance of figurative style. Designers drew inspiration from the plant and animal worlds, but not only. Against a backdrop of war, many jewelers created patriotic jewelry, to affirm their support for the Allies in their own way. These jewels, featuring the colors of the French flag (blue, white and red), were often brooches, more discreet to wear, such as the V brooch by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin (1942), made of precious stones (gold, diamond, sapphire, ruby) and moonstone; or the bouquet brooch from the Hawaii collection by Van Cleef & Arpels (1940), made of gold, diamonds, sapphires and rubies.
Finally, jewelry from the 40's and 50's is also distinguished from jewelry from other eras by its affordability. Many pieces signed by anonymous designers are accessible in terms of price, although they are just as sophisticated as designer jewelry.
Diamonds were used less in the 40s and 50s than in the Art Deco period. Art Deco gave pride of place to precious stones, particularly diamonds, which were showcased in sober jewelry and often combined with platinum. Retro jewelry, on the other hand, is more colorful: yellow or rose gold is combined with small colored gemstones to add small touches of color. When jewelry from the 40s and 50s features diamonds, it's often small diamonds that are used to embellish the figurative motifs of the jewel.
The 40s and 50s saw the emergence of jewelry designs that are still in vogue today.
Among the jewels emblematic of the retro style of the '40s are find the Tank ring. This type of ring appeared during the Second World War (hence its name). The Tank ring is distinguished by its voluminous appearance and often complicated shapes: tangled knots, geometric forms... In a way, it's one of the forerunners of today's much-loved XXL jewelry!
With the Tank ring, many jewels, such as necklaces and bracelets, have embraced this trend for heavy, voluminous jewelry, which had already been initiated by Cartier and its Tank watch with tank motifs, after the First World War.
Another type of jewelry emblematic of this period is the secret watch. These ladies' watches were fitted with a cover to hide the time, based on the widespread belief at the time that women didn't always need to know the exact time. The designs were varied: animal, floral, ribbon or geometric motifs... Among the best-known designers, Piaget stood out for its secret watches with ribbons and bows, such as the Limelight with ribbon motif in pink gold set with 301 diamonds. But Piaget was not the only French house to have created its own secret watch: all the leading jewelers of the time followed suit, including CartierBoucheron, and Van Cleef and Arpels.
Brooches were also emblematic of the 40's and 50's, particularly those decorated with animal motifs. The most iconic of the genre was the one designed by Cartier in 1942: a brooch in the shape of a birdcage symbolizing the Occupation, reissued in 1944 in the form of an open cage with the bird ready to fly away...
Our Diamantaire Paris brand buys your antique jewelry (vintage jewelry) and designer jewelry.
If you have a piece of retro 40's or 50's jewelry for sale that you'd like to know the value of, don't hesitate to contact us by e-mail at achat@diamantaire-paris.com or drop in without an appointment at 43 rue Beaubourg in Paris.
You can also call us at : +33 1 48 87 23 37
Jewelry from the 40s and 50s represents a fascinating period in jewelry history, marked by a significant stylistic break with the Art Deco era. This era saw the emergence of a more colorful, whimsical and free-spirited style, known as retro. Designs from this period are characterized by the use of yellow and rose gold, as well as animal and floral motifs, evolving towards more abstract styles influenced by contemporary artistic currents.
World War II had a considerable impact on the jewelry styles of the period. The war led to a shortage of raw materials, forcing jewelers to innovate. Platinum was requisitioned, gold regulated, and precious stones difficult to import. Jewelers used copper alloys and synthetic stones to overcome these restrictions, giving rise to unique creations with distinct colors and styles.
Among the great jewelers of the 40s and 50s were Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Bulgari, Hermès, Mauboussin, Sterlé and Mellerio dits Meller. These houses helped shape the jewelry landscape of this era with their innovative and iconic creations.
Diamantaire Paris offers to appraise and buy back retro jewelry, reflecting this unique period in history. If you own a piece of retro jewelry from the 40s and 50s and would like to know its value, please contact Diamantaire Paris by e-mail at achat@diamantaire-paris.com or visit us without appointment at 43 rue Beaubourg, Paris.
For those looking to enhance their collection with historic pieces, jewelry from the 40s and 50s offers a unique opportunity. Iconic pieces such as the '40s Tank ring or retro brooches, available from renowned jewelers, capture the essence of retro style. Discover this historic jewelry and more at Diamantaire Paris, where you can also explore their expertise in Art Deco jewelry and iconic rings from the '40s.
To find out more about these jewels, visit their special page.
Jewelry from this period marked a break with the previous Art Deco style, adopting a more colorful, whimsical and free-spirited style, known as retro. They are characterized by the use of yellow and rose gold, and animal and floral motifs, evolving towards more abstract styles influenced by contemporary artistic currents.
The war led to a shortage of raw materials, forcing jewelers to innovate. Platinum was requisitioned, gold regulated, and precious stones difficult to import. Jewelers used copper alloys and synthetic stones to overcome these restrictions, giving rise to unique creations with distinct colors and styles.
Among the great jewelers of the 40s and 50s were Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Bulgari, Hermès, Mauboussin, Sterlé, and Mellerio dits Meller.
Diamantaire Paris buys vintage jewelry and creations from this period. If you own a piece of retro jewelry from the 40s and 50s and would like to know its value, please contact Diamantaire Paris by e-mail at achat@diamantaire-paris.com or visit us without appointment at 43 rue Beaubourg, Paris.
Iconic jewels from this period include the Tank ring, which appeared during the Second World War, and the secret watch, designed for women with a cover that hides the time. Retro brooches, especially those with animal motifs, are also representative of this era.
Jewelry from the 40s and 50s marked a break with the Art Deco style, introducing a more colorful, whimsical retro style. They are characterized by the use of yellow and rose gold, as well as animal and floral motifs, influenced by contemporary artistic trends. These unique creations were born out of material restrictions during the Second World War, leading to the use of copper alloys and synthetic stones. Diamantaire Paris offers to appraise and buy back these retro jewels, reflecting this unique historical period. To find out more about these jewels, visit their dedicated page.
By incorporating iconic pieces like the Tank ring from the '40s or retro brooches, available from renowned jewelers, into your collection, you capture the essence of retro style. Discover these historic jewels and more at Diamantaire Paris, where you can also explore their expertise in Art Deco jewelry and emblematic rings from the '40s.