Signed pieces · Diamantaires OG
How to Recognize Authentic Bulgari Jewelry: Signature, Serial Number, Hallmarks
Serpenti, B.zero1, Bulgari Bulgari: the Roman Maison’s icons are also among the most frequently counterfeited. Here is what we examine, and what you can observe yourself. No single feature is sufficient on its own: only an in-person examination allows for a definitive conclusion.
Where to Look
Inside the band of a ring, near the clasp of a bracelet or necklace, on the back of a pendant. One can typically find: the BVLGARI signature—with a V instead of a U, following the classical Latin inscription—, a serial number, the metal purity hallmark (750 for 18k gold), and often the mention Made in Italy.
The Italian Hallmark
Jewelry crafted in Italy bears the Italian maker’s mark: a star, a number, and a province code. It must be crisp and consistent with the other markings. Vintage pieces from the Maison may feature different markings depending on the era: antiquity alone is not suspicious.
Craftsmanship, the First Clue
On a B.zero1, the spiral must be uniform and the BVLGARI engraving crisp on both rims; on a Bulgari Bulgari, the name must run evenly around the bezel; on a Serpenti, the scales must align flawlessly. Counterfeits often give themselves away through soft engravings or imprecise proportions.
Warning Signs
- Irregular or overly deep engraving, with poorly formed or misaligned lettering;
- Missing, blurry hallmarks or markings inconsistent with the stated metal purity;
- Coarse craftsmanship: visible solder marks, sharp edges, imprecise setting;
- An abnormally light weight for the stated gold purity, or metal that discolors;
- An offer at a price significantly disconnected from market value.
Home Tests: To Be Avoided
Acid, magnet, or scratch tests prove nothing and risk damaging the piece.
Documentation
The original box, invoice, and certificate are helpful, but they may have been separated from the piece over time: they never replace a direct physical examination of the jewelry.
Our Appraisal Process
At 43 rue Beaubourg, a state-certified gemologist examines the piece in your presence: reading engravings and hallmarks under magnification, verifying metal purity, weight, and craftsmanship, and inspecting the gemstones. The appraisal is complimentary and involves no obligation. Should you wish to sell, our Maison will make you a firm offer; if you have already received an offer from another dealer, our Maison is committed to outbidding it.
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Free & confidential appraisal
Have your piece appraised
Describe the piece in 3 steps: a state-certified gemologist will reply within 24 h and tell you if it matches what we are looking for. The price is then determined during the in-person appraisal, with the piece in hand — free of charge and without obligation.
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With or without an appointment
Make an appointment by telephone
Call us Monday to Friday, from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.: we will set a time that suits you, without waiting. You may also come without an appointment during opening hours.
43 rue Beaubourg, 75003 Paris · Rambuteau metro station · Mon – Fri · 10am-1pm · 2pm-6:30pm
Frequently Asked Questions
Authenticating Jewelry: Your Questions
Why is Bulgari spelled BVLGARI?+
The Maison uses the classical Latin alphabet, where the letter V represents the letter U. A piece signed “BULGARI” with a U should therefore raise suspicion, though only a thorough physical examination can yield a definitive conclusion.
Can you authenticate my Bulgari jewelry from photographs?+
Photographs allow us to tell you whether the piece matches what we are looking for, but cannot definitively determine authenticity: this must be evaluated in person, under a loupe. Send us photos of the inner markings and the clasp, or visit our office.
Can I have my jewelry authenticated without selling it?+
Yes. The appraisal is complimentary and without obligation: you leave with your jewelry and, if you wish, an offer that you are entirely free to decline.
My Bulgari jewelry has neither box nor invoice: can it still be authentic?+
Yes. Many heirloom pieces have lost their original paperwork. Authenticity is determined by the piece itself, not its box.
Do I need to make an appointment?+
No. We welcome you with or without an appointment, Monday to Friday, from 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM and from 2:00 PM to 6:30 PM. To guarantee a specific time without waiting, please call us at 01 48 87 81 44.
Can you give me an initial assessment before I visit?+
Yes: send us a photo and the model name on WhatsApp, and we will let you know if the piece corresponds to what we are seeking. We never provide price estimates from photos: authenticity, condition, and gemstones can only be assessed with the piece in hand.
Our Appraisal Office
43 rue Beaubourg, Paris 3rd
Just steps from the Centre Pompidou, our appraisal office welcomes you Monday to Friday, with or without an appointment. You will be received in complete discretion by a state-certified gemologist, who will inspect your jewelry in your presence.
